Regina WB - Sidetracked Writing

Travel Writing Based in Europe- as seen in TBS' One Night Stand

One Night Stand

Lisbon, Portugal

By Regina WB

Whether coming for fashion, fado music, or feijoada, those who visit Lisbon are in for a pleasant surprise. While not often mentioned among the big-names in European cities, Lisbon is a treasure-trove capital in a gem of a country. Its urban-ocean setting resembling that of Barcelona, Lisbon has seascapes, castles and cobblestones in a less manicured style than its Spanish neighbor. The Rio Tejo is the churning backdrop for this hip, emerging city, with a rich history and a bright artistic future.

Though immense, Lisbon is also manageable. Split into the Alfama, Baxia and Alto bairros, it’s possible to see the city on foot enjoying each neighborhood’s distinctive charm. There’s plenty to see in Lisbon, which was once the base for an empire spanning from Brazil to India. Home to some of the celebrities of sea exploration (Vasco da Gama, Magellan), it’s no surprise that many of the city’s monuments have a maritime theme. The city’s famous bridge is named after the Portuguese sailor who first mapped the route between Portugal and India. Opened in 1998, Vasco da Gama Bridge is the longest in Europe at 17.2 kilometres.

For a stretching view of Lisbon’s shoreline, head up to 5^th century Castelo de Sao Jorge. From the curving castle walls the city is laid out below in a precarious patchwork of brick-red roofs, with a bell tower or cupola popping up every now and then in-between. Beyond the mismatched buildings is the ship-dotted river leading into Atlantic, and what used to be one of the most powerful ports in the world.

Lisbon is no longer the power-player it was in the 1500s. The city is in need of some repairs, and while captivating in its own right it’s a far cry from Paris, Milan, or Madrid. Still, this might just make it better. Didn’t someone say Paris was passé anyway? Well Lisbon is not. With an emerging fashion industry and many innovative boutiques, Lisbon contributes something different to European fashion and art. Shopping the Bairro Alto will take fashion aficionados past hole-in-the-wall shops such as Alternativa, ID Clothes and Le Mec (a small boutique specializing exclusively in underwear).

Eating Out:

Built on a series of hills, it’s easy to work up an appetite in the waterside metropolis. Luckily, Lisbon’s cuisine is rich, flavourful, and generally delicious. It is mandatory to try at least one pastel de Belém, a creamy little pie topped with cinnamon. Of course, this very costal country takes pride in seafood and offers a huge culinary array of fish dishes. There are said to be over 365 recipes for bacalhau (codfish) in Portugal. When it’s time for lunch (from 12:30 to 2:30pm), head up-town to popular Cantinho do Bem Estar. With over 21 years in the business, Cantinho do Bem Estar knows what to do when it comes to seafood. Try the small mackerel, or jaquinzinhos, with bean and tomato rice. For dinner (7:00pm to 11pm), Antigo 1 de Maio is an appetizing option if in the mood for something típico. Try the black pork Feijoada and the black pudding (Morcela).

The nightlife in Bairro Alto is legendary, and offers a plethora of bars for those favouring a nightcap. For music and caiprioscas, Kitsch’n is the best bet. For a large selection of classic cocktails Purex Bar is a mellow space, good for intimate chats. Of course, this neighbourhood also claims the city’s fado music houses, interspersed throughout the bairro’s skinny streets. At the heart of Portuguese fado tradition, Lisbon’s Bairro Alto has held all the stars in the bluesy, heartsick genre. Try to avoid fado shows which include dinner, and instead stick to smaller clubs with low covers or reasonable drink minimums.

Sleeping Over:

Staying close to the action can be easier when it’s time to call it a night, but not a great choice if interested in getting some sleep. In the Bairro Alto the party never ceases, and one is sure to hear the cry of the disco call while staying at Pensao Londres, a budget option. On the other end of the spectrum is the lovely five-star, Hotel Bairro Alto where the windows are sure to be double-paned. Leaving the Bairro Alto, a stay at the historic Palácio Belmonte is the place to book for a once in a lifetime experience, as the building is classified as a National Monument.

Around and About:

To the North of Lisbon is Sintra, which holds the former summering palaces for Portuguese royalty. Even further north is Fátima, which will appeal to those looking for a religious excursion. Estoril has a very cosmopolitan feel and is just a few kilometres west of Lisbon, easily reached by bus. Belém is also near Lisbon, and was the launching pad for many a voyage during the Age of Discovery. For those with only a few days in Lisbon, it’s best to stay put. There is more than enough to see in this vintage municipality as it artfully reinvents itself for the 21^st century.

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Some Like it Hot

A ONE NIGHT STAND in Dorres, France

By Regina WB

Ski and holiday season are just around the bend, which has residents in the otherwise slumberous village of Dorres revving up and readying for cold-weather visitors. Just on the border of France and Catalonia, Dorres is one of many quaint towns spotting a mountainous landscape soon to be covered (fingers crossed) with thick white powder. Usually by December this region has converted into a winter wonderland, with snowboarders and skiers flocking to nearby stations.

It seems that in creating Dorres and the surrounding area, Mother Nature paid special attention to detail. Not only does this part of France have lots of “Ohhh, ahhhh!” appeal, it has several natural hot springs nestled in its graceful hills, perfect for Snow Bunnies and skiers who want to warm up after a day on the slopes. Dorres’ Bains Romains Hot Springs are au naturel in an open and wild setting, free of massage, facials and Jacuzzi jets. While perhaps unrefined the springs are not unkempt, but clean and invigorating for those who enjoying being neck deep in hot water under a wide winter sky.

Not a new discovery, these mountainside springs have been used since about 1500 BC, but became especially popular in the early 1900s because of their sulphurous properties. Dorres largest spring is a zigzag shaped pool, which curves in such a way as to cradle tired bones and sore muscles. The coolest of the pools, 41 degree Celsius water enters through a series of small filters from below. Side by side about fifteen people fit in the large pool, which looks out over a valley and Puigmal mountain, with small homes and farms along its hillsides making up sporadic freckles of civilization.

Up the path from zigzag pool, visitors reach the waterfall tubs. Hotter, these two pools fit up to 6 people in each and have a constantly quick flowing water source. They are steamy, small and popular, and at times it can be hard to get a seat in these two ‘hotties’. Beside the ‘hotties’ sits the secluded bath hut, with two deep sunken stone tubs. Bathers fill the tubs and enjoy their own private hot spring bath inside the private hut, which offers a quieter more introspective soaking experience.

Where there’s one hot spring, there is usually another, such are the laws of geothermal activity. Just nine kilometres from Dorres heading east is the tiny village of Llo and Bains de Llo. While not as raw as Dorres, Llo does have an outdoor hot pool and much more in the way of services. For about €8.00 guests at Bains de Llo can soak it up in Jacuzzi, saunas, fountains and a Hammam. A sort of country-style spa, Llo also offers massage, facials and thermal spring water cures with a café on-site for a poolside snack.

Sleeping Over

There are quite a few hotels, hostels, and vacation home rentals in the area surrounding Dorres and Llo. If you fancy staying right in Dorres, which is highly recommendable, book a room at Hotel Marty which is located right in the centre of the village next to the church. Hotel Marty is central and reasonable (€50-€70), plus puts you within walking distance of Dorres hot springs for an easy stroll up to lunch/dinner/bed, after a few hours in the sulphur-rich waters. There is nothing going on in Dorres other than peace and tranquillity. It’s a small French village with a lot of charm and about one restaurant, but staying in such a place is a really special experience.

Down the road in neighboring Bourg-Madame, there’s Hotel Celisol located right next to the village’s bubbling brook. It has parking in the back and a cozy atmosphere for about €50 - €60 a night. A quick 3 kilometre jaunt over the border from Bourg-Madame, visitors will find a plenty of accommodation options in Puigcerdá. For something a bit fancier, head for Hotel del Lago on Lake Puigcerdá. Besides a unique location, the hotel has all the extras such as a pool, bar, garden, and sauna. Some of the hotel’s rooms have fireplaces which is a pleasing winter-time touch, starting at €85.

Eating Out

Dining in Dorres isn’t easy. Hotel Marty also has a restaurant, which is probably the best bet. Back in Bourg-Madame there are a couple restaurants, including Snack Bar Catalana, La Flambé, and Le Luvintia all of which are located on the town’s main drag and within walking distance from Hotel Celisol. While Snack Bar Catalana is just pizzas and sandwiches, Flambé and Luvintia have traditional French cuisine. It’s important to make a mental note about the timetable difference for meals in France, which is about an hour earlier than Spain. If 9pm rolls around and you haven’t made a reservation, head back over the border to Puigcerdá where Spanish restaurants will welcome you with open arms until at least 10pm.

Around and About

Of course, there’s the skiing, and lots of it! Arànser, Guils-Fontanera, and Lles are a few. Off the slopes, there are several self-guided tours visitors can take of Vias Romanicas, which lead to interesting religious sites in the area dating from the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Ask at the tourism office for a map of the Via Romanica for Valle de Segre.

Getting There

From Barcelona take the E9 or C16 North towards Manresa. Follow Signs to the Cadi tunnel and Puigcerdá. The drive is about 2 hours. From Madrid take the A2 or E90 towards Zaragoza and then head to Manresa. Head North towards France and follow signs to Puigcerdá. About 7 hours.